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Amersham ---- News, Views & Information

On Line Tour of Old Amersham

The following tour has been compiled from notes given to Muriel Jones in the 1970s by the late Mr. Elgar Pike, notable local estate agent and historian. The notes have been added to and further research undertaken by Muriel and Matthew Jones. The details given in this tour are not definitive, but are provided to give the reader a taste of Amersham's history and buildings.

When walking around Old Amersham, please remember that most of the buildings are private property and are peoples' homes. Please respect the property owners' privacy. In particular, many of the alley ways and "yards" are private property and should not be entered without prior permission. Amersham and the surrounding has become home to a number of famous people, it is not uncommon to see them going about their daily lives, again, please respect their privacy.

Owing to the Age of Old Amersham and the various changes that have taken place, the street numbering has been altered over the years, so perhaps once what was a number 11 may well now be number 62. Also, where there appears to be large gaps in the street numbers, this if often caused by the buildings, flats and houses of an adjoining alley, muse or yard being numbered with the next number from the street they connect with.

Introduction

The following notes and sketch map may be printed out and used for private use. If you wish to use these notes for any other purpose, please email the web master .
A sketch map of Old Amersham can be found here . The online tour is roughly circular and can be started at a number of places - marked A to H on the sketch map. If you would like a street map of the area, click here for a street map of Old Amersham from the Multimap site.

Amersham - probably more than any other similar small town in England - preserves in its streets the same general appearance that it displayed during the 17th and 18th centuries. However, the origins of the town go back to pre Saxon times. Amersham was then called Agmodesham. The Doomsday Book listed Amersham as Elmodesham, with 6 manors, one belonging to the wife of Edward the Confessor. In 1200, King John granted the town a market and fair, which is still held every year in September when rides and stalls occupy the High Street (and will continue to be held unless there is a break. Even during World War II, the fair continued, although on a much smaller scale). The Reformation had some roots in the town as several Lollards were condemned to death and burnt at the stake in 1521: a memorial on the hill above the town commemorates this event and in 2001 and 2003 the people of Amersham performed a community play re-creating the events of the time.



Like many old towns, Amersham is laid out as a four cross, although in Amersham's case, a staggered cross with the High Street and Broadway forming the centre and Church Street and Whielden Street the side arms. The wealthier residents inhabited the west end, with the poorer towards the east (like London) a result of the way the predominant wind blows. A noteworthy feature of the High Street is its spaciousness which is a characteristic of coaching towns, although much of the width of the present road on its north side was used as gardens after the coaching period ended. The street is also wide as a result of the "town planning" which took place in the 13th century when the market was established.




It is far from easy - in fact, almost impossible - to state a definite or exact age for most of the houses and cottages which have been considerably altered and added to throughout the centuries. Many of the original half - timbered fronts were covered over by plain brick elevations in Georgian times when brickwork came into fashion all over the country instead of timber-framing and nogging. So, older houses were given this "new look" to make them like the newly built 18th century residences. The oldest parts of almost all the Amersham houses are the backs. A considerable number still preserve some interior wattle - and - daub walling which may well date from as early as the 14th century. A number of houses also contain ancient wall paintings, which are of historical interest and are on private property and not available for pubic viewing.

A particular feature of the town is its old coaching inns with their original high-arched gateways. The cobbled forecourts to most of the houses should also be noticed. They are in the ownership of the freeholders, not part of the public pavement. These cobbles are of geological interest, being of stone quarried at Denner Hill, near Prestwood, where such an outcrop of sandstone is unusual in a chalk country like the Chiltern Hills.

The traditional building materials in this district were naturally those which were most easily obtainable and at the lowest cost. Flints, which were split to face walls, were found in abundance in the chalk. The richly wooded Chilterns also provided ample supplies of timber. Timber-framing of houses was mainly of oak. In the older houses it is massive and roughly hewn. Often a tree was simply split lengthwise to make two substantial beams, and whatever the tree trunk's natural configuration might be, the rest of the building was constructed to fit it. Consequently many walls are sloped and angled and none of the floors is level. In later work there is less timber and it is not of such massive size. Floors were generally of wide-cut elm planking. The construction was by first forming a skeleton of timber-framing, not nailed but held together with wooden pegs, then the inglenook and large chimney stack would be built, together with a side bread oven, and the wall spaces were filled in with either wattle-and-daub (i.e. mixed mud and straw), flints, or brickwork known as nogging.

Roofs were originally of thatch; but as hill corn was always short in the stalk, local thatching never attained a high standard. When the local deposits of clay and sand were opened up, in about the late 15th and early 16th centuries, brick and tile making became thriving local industries. Bricks were made from clay to the north of Amersham and tiles and pottery from clay to the south which had a higher oil content. In time, therefore, construction became entirely of brick, with timber only for rafters, joists and floors. Ground floor rooms often had flooring of bricks or large local tiles. The use of slate for roofs was exceptional until the 19th century; mainly because there were no local slate quarries; but slate has more durability than tiles; yet tiles made locally at least three hundred years ago are still on many roofs in Amersham.

A - Parish Church - St. Mary's
The church is built of local split flints with stone dressings, the oldest parts comprise most of the nave and both transepts, dating from the 13th century. The west end of the nave and aisles were added in the 14th century. The south porch and tower are 15th century; but the tower was reflinted in the latter part of the 19th century. The tower carries a peal of six bells cast in the 17th and 18th centuries, in total the tower actually contains 13 bells, quite a large number, although only 12 are rung at one. The Drake family chapel (beyond the east end of the church) was built in the 18th century. The chancel east window is of medieval Continental glass. There are interesting 15th and 16th century brasses in the chancel and displayed on the north aisle wall.
St. Mary's is located in Church Street. The street is almost entirely made up of Georgian property with some 17th century rear parts. Next to the Church (on your right with your back to the church) is Badminton Court. Now converted into offices, this used to be the (Weller) brewery. At one time the brewery was the largest employer in Amersham and it had a large chain of pubs around Buckinghamshire and the surrounding counties. The Weller Brewery and its pubs were sold to Benskins in 1929. After the brewery closed, the building was home to Goya's perfume factory. Next to Badminton court is Badminton House which was at one time a coaching inn called Rumseys. Church Street continues into Rectory Hill which leads up to Amersham on the Hill.
Turn left down Church Street and you arrive in Market Square.
B - Market Square (North side) & Market Hall
On the corner of Church Street and Market Square is Butlers Corner. Lloyds Pharmacy occupies a recently renovated 16th century building. Just along is the home of the Old Grammar School - Dated 1624 with very massive oaken interior timbers and open timbered upper part. The building is older than 1624: known as Church House it has a long history and was an early meeting place for the people and traders of Amersham. The building was built by the Fraternity of St. Katherine, set up by some of the tradesmen by the 15th century. The Fraternity aimed to support those who had fallen on bad times and had a priest to pray for them. The Fraternity was dissolved in 1552 as a result of the Reformation, but the building remained service the community. Buckinghamshire had a good tradition in providing charities for the relief of the poor and those in need. In Amersham a number of old charities still exist in some form today, their histories are available in the Amersham Museum.The building was originally open on the ground floor, but over the centuries the sides have been bricked up to provide accommodation, school masters' houses and accommodation and a workplace for the poor (Linen Workhouse). The building has also acted as the Parish Room, Town Hall and meeting place. Prior to the bricking up of the ground floor, the market was also held under the arches on wet days. All these activities pre dated the setting up of the Grammar School and the building of the Market Hall. As well as providing accommodation for the Grammar School, which became Dr. Challoners Grammar school now located in Amersham on the Hill, the building also provided accommodation for the Cheyne Writing School in the 18th and 18th centuries. As Amersham grew, extensions were added to the original Church House Building, forming the North Side of the Market Square.
Now turn around. On the west side of Market Square is the Market Hall. Built 1682 and given to the Town by the Drake family. The market was held underneath and the trade guild meetings in the room above. The building is still in use with various stalls often under the hall and the rooms above used for public and social gatherings. The turret on the top houses a clock and bell. For many years the bell (which was cast locally) was rang to summon the volunteer fire service. The bell also used to be rung on Tuesdays at noon to announce the market. The clock could be seen from the old Weller brewery in Church Street, so to stop the workers popping out to see what time it was, the brewery arranged with the Drakes for the clock face facing Church Street to be removed! There is the old lock-up at north east corner and a lead pump dated 1785 is on the outside (where inmates of the lock up were "revived" in the mornings). Note the in filling under the arches of the road side corners of the building, done to deter vagrants sleeping in the corners. Note the Doomsday plaque on the outside, near the pump.
If you look away from the Market hall, with Church Street on your left, note how wide the road is. There used to be a row of houses in the middle of the wide street here, these were demolished in 1939 as part of a slum clearance scheme. They were known as Church Alley and they had no gardens.
Now walk past The Market Hall heading west.
C - High Street - North Side
Walk down High Street and note the following buildings -
Nos. 27 - The Gables - Of plastered brickwork, not stone, with Dutch gables, dating from Tudor period with fine interior wall panelling and doors which are original 16th century, also well moulded clunch (chalk) fireplaces with massive carved mantels.	(Picture taken in 1960)
Nos. 33 - Tresco House - Tudor but re fronted in 18th century, the brick now covering the massive timber work which is still exposed in the rooms. When a conversion was being undertaken a large brick vaulted bread oven was found, which now forms part of a room. The house with the pediment above the doorway is the site of the old George coaching inn which closed a very long time ago. Many of the buildings in Amersham have a different past, in particular, some are former pubs and inns. Nos. 39 - Buckinghams Gate - Typical timber-framed 17th century, but much restored. This building was once a butcher's and you can see (cars permitting) an iron tethering ring beneath the roadside kerb.
Nos. 41 - Red Lion House - Formerly an inn. Has vast inglenook and very large upstairs assembly room extended at the back on iron pillars. Front Georgian, rear part 17th century
Nos. 45 - Silver Bell Cottage - 18th century, unusual because of its slated roof.
Nos. 49 - now housing the Amersham Museum. A new extension completed in 2001 replaced an ugly shop front. The original building behind is probably the most ancient-house in the town. It has finely carved wooden Tudor doorway. The Museum is open Sunday afternoons between Spring and October.
Nos. 51 - The Old Post Office - dating from the 18th Century
Nos. 53 - 55 - Chattertons - formerly Lloyds Bank and before that the site of a flour mill. Just past Nos. 67 is a private alley way to the Day Alms Houses. Originally the site of labourers cottages, these were replace in 1875 by these Almshouses built by Harriet Day whose family kept the Swan Inn.
Nos. 89 - "Wistaria" - Georgian cottage Just before Nos. 105 note the private Mews containing old cottages.
Running along the back of the properties on the north side of the High Street is the River Misbourne. Many of the properties have wooden bridges across the river to Barn Meadow. For many years the water flow in the Misbourne dried up due to over extraction, but in recent years work has been undertaken to restore the river's flow. Indeed, in recent years some of the properties, particularly the Elephant & Castle pub, have been flooded by the river. The presence of the river behind the High Street explain why a number of trades used to take place along the north side of the High Street. The Elephant & Castle, although much modified dates from the late 17th century, not a coaching inn like a number of the other pubs in Amersham.
Nos.111 - Formerly the schoolmaster's house, late 17th century. Nos.113 - Former free school for town built in the 16th century, now restored. Nos.117 - Typical small Georgian house with bow window. Up to about the 1920s this building had a blue lamp outside as it was the police house. Nos.119 - Georgian and earlier with Classic style doorcase. There was a story that tragedies would occur to the Tyrwitt-Drakes (lords of the manor who lived at Shardeloes -see below) unless a member of the family lived in "the dungeons". There were underground cellars and possibly passages under Shardeloes, but when the deeds of number 119 were looked at, it was found that the house used to be called "The Dungeons" - was this where one of the Tyrwitt-Drakes should have lived?
Nos.129 - The smallest house in Amersham built in the 16th century, but added to in later years	(Picture taken in 1960)
Nos. 143 - An old bakery.
After Nos. 143 is the Methodist Church built in 1899, one of the newest buildings along the High Street. The site was previously occupied by four small almshouses originally built in the 1600s by Andrew Hale for four single people who could live there rent free for life, those being chosen by the church. By the 1890s the almshouses were in a bad state of repair, even though some were still being lived in.
Nos.147 - Late 18th century refronted but older interior. Nos.149 - April Cottage 17th century brick, flint and tiled.
Nos. 171 - "Turpins Row" - Late 16th century and practically unaltered cottage block but each cottage is different. They are named after the builder and not the infamous highwayman.
After Turpins Row is Mill Lane leading School Lane and a footpath by the River Misbourne to Barn Meadow. Past the Mill Lane is Town Mill - Late 17th century, but much restored, with stream coming out under bridge. A mill on this site was mentioned with Millstream in the Doomsday Survey of 1086.
Now cross the street and prepare to walk down the south side of High Street.
(If you have a car, you can travel beyond this point out of Amersham towards Great Missenden. You will see on the left Shardeloes Manor House - Former seat of Tyrwitt-Drakes. A Georgian mansion with fine interior plasterwork and other decoration, being the first work of the famous Adam brothers. During World War II the building was used as a maternity hospital for the mothers of London to have their babies in "peace". Now converted to luxury flats). Shardeloes park is the home of the Amersham Cricket club and at the end of the 19th century, horse racing was held there. The Tyrwitt-Drakes had a great interest in hunting and the Shardeloes estate housed the famous Berkeley Hunt kennels for a time.
D - High Street. (South side)
You can either walk down the south side of High Street or take a short walk towards the outskirts of Amersham.
If you have chosen to walk to the outskirts of Amersham, go as far as Nos. 172 Coldmoreham - former farmhouse. Site of Roman settlement. Late 17th century residence with four large inglenooks. Now walking back into Old Amersham, note Little Shardeloes - The former dower house of Shardeloes, now divided into three houses. Built in the late 17th century with original high brick wall to street over 300 years old.
Now continue down high Street.
Hinton House - Typical plain Georgian Nos. 130 - Piers Place - Dignified Queen Anne period Around Nos. 106 was what was known as Town Farm of ancient origin but almost entirely rebuilt.
Unlike the north side of High Street where the Church had interests in the properties, much of the property on the South Side was owned by the Drake Family. The occupiers of these properties were favorable towards the Drakes and Amersham was a Rotten Borough returning two members of Parliament. The buildings on the south side tend to be of a grander nature. The Swan is a brick building with exposed timberwork inside. It has a date of 1671 on it, which is about right.
Drake's Almshouses - built in 1657 by William Drake to house 6 poor women of the parish, widows over fifty years of age. Among their benefits were "a gown of London brown at Christmas each year for the first three years and alternate years thereafter; a pair of shoes, a pair of stockings and a shift twice a year at Christmas and Easter; and firewood. The almshouses have recently been modernised and are still in use, although not quite for the same purpose.
Nos. 92-82 -17th century block of local brick and tile. Nos. 78 -76 - Typical half-timbered, late 16th century. Nos. 68 - 66 - Whyte Posts & Hedingham House - Formerly one residence, Tudor and Georgian with 19th century additions to latter at rear. Nos. 64 & 62 -17th century brick and timbered, restored. Nos. 60-56 - A fine Tudor block on flint base. Nos. 56 contains contains wall paintings from 1550. The paintings are of the 9 Worthies, although they are not easily identifiable now, they are believed to be Julias Ceasar, Duke Joshua, King David, Hector of Troy, Charlemagne, Godfrey de Bouillon, Alexander the Great, Judas Maccabaeus and King Arthur, all well known characters to the inhabitants of 1550. Note the building with "The Worthies" above its arch. This was an old coaching inn, one of many in Amersham which flourished before the decline of the coaching trade. This building was the White Hart which closed in the 1700s. You can spot other closed coaching inns in Amersham, identified by their arched opening through to courtyards behind where the stables and out buildings would have been.
Elmodesham House - Dignified Georgian, now luxury flats. Originally built in the early 18th century, the present frontage dates from the early 20th century after it was modified (something it has been subject to many times in its history). Originally built as a house for a wealthy London trader, but over the years has seen many uses. From 1829 to 1861 it was a school for "Sons of Liberal Gentlemen" known as Amersham Hall (the school flourished as the area was full of non conformists), the school moved to Berkshire because it was thought the lack of a railway in Amersham at the time was harming its prospects. In the 1930s the building became the home of the local council and continued in this use until 1986 when the Council moved to new offices in Amersham on the Hill. Over the 300 years of the building's life, it has seen much alteration and additions. Now it is luxury flats and as many of the original features as could be retained have survived, including the original fine painted ceiling by Sir James Thornhill depicting "The Meeting of Bacchus and Ariadne on Naxos" together with wood panel paintings depicting Greek Mythological scenes.
When postal services developed, it became a requirement for properties to be numbered to aid deliveries. The Drake family refused to number their properties and resisted as much as possible. Finally they were forced into numbering their properties along High Street, but interpreted the requirement to number the doors in their own way - placing the numbers on the inside of the doors!
King's Arms - Partly Brewers Tudor with reuse of old timbers; but retaining good deal of original interior 16th & 17th century work. The exterior was used as the "Jolly Boatman" in the film "Four Weddings & a Funeral". The sign outside the pub is supposed to depict the arms of Henry VIII and the supporter on the right is supposed to be a red dragon. However, if you look closely, the dragon only has two legs, thus making it a wyvern and so the sign is incorrect. Although the building can be traced back to the 1400s, it was extensively renovated in the 1930s when the whole of the font was given the white and timber look. The pub has been extended to incorporate some cottages. In the lounge is an unglazed mediaeval window and a massive Tudor staircase leads to the open timbered Elizabethan hall. In 2006 the Kings Arms reopened after a major refurbishment converting it into a hotel. The inside has been changed quite a lot since the previous refurbishment of the 1930s
Note the Chapel Yard, an alley leading to the Platt. Along this alley (actually numbered 38 High Street) is a building called The Warehouse, an old warehouse which used to store such things as flour, drugs and spirits, an old hoist is still visible. The warehouse served Haddons Pharmacy on the High Street, which has fine iron work above the shop front from 1910. Haddon's was rare as a chemist which held a license to sell spirits. Also along the ally is The Kings Church, formerly the Amersham Baptists church with a fine dome or lantern, the second largest unsupported dome in England. (St. Paul's being the largest).
Apsley House - Characteristic early 18th century town residence. Nos. 26 - Old Forge -This house displays good timberwork of 16th century (partly renewed) and has overhanging upper storey.
We are now back at the Market Hall. Walk past the hall into Market Square
E - Market Square (South Side)
Crown Hotel - Rebuilt in the 19th century but retains 16th century work and has wall painting of Queen Elizabeth I royal arms, commemorating her visit to the town. The Crown has another royal connection. One day the landlord was sitting in a chair outside the Crown, enjoying the sunshine. As he basked, horses, carts and carriages made their way past on all kind of business. In those far off days of the 18th Century, Amersham was a sleepy market town where excitement of any kind was rare. A yellow post chaise pulled by two well groomed horses drew up outside the Crown. A kindly looking benevolent old gentleman with a very red face attired in hunting costume called out to the Landlord and asked in an abrupt manner if he could provide him with a carriage to Windsor. While the Crown's resident driver, Tom King harnessed the Crown's horses to their carriage, the gentleman took a drink in the tap room seated comfortably in a comer. Money changed hands, and the red faced old gentleman shook the Landlord's hand in thanks. It was only later that Tom King and the Landlord realized the gruff old gentleman had been no other than King George III. The regulars at the Crown never heard the last of this tale! For years they kept the anniversary, sometimes rather too well, remembering how the King himself had made an unexpected visit to an otherwise obscure part of his kingdom. The interior of the Crown was used in the film "Four Weddings & a Funeral" including the four poster bed scene, which has meant the hotel has enjoyed much popularity for many years. In 1932 a cockatoo saved many lives and possibly the Crown itself by squawking loudly when fire broke out, raising the alarm. Sadly the heroic bird did not survive, dying of smoke inhalation, but it was preserved and was on display for many years (in a phone box at one point). The famous bird has now been handed to the Amersham Museum. The front of the Crown looks rather more modern than the actual age of the hotel. It was refronted after a fire, to get an idea of the age of the building, look into the court yard. The Crown used to have a porch, but this was demolished owing to damage caused by traffic.
The Post Office - Plain 18th century shop and dwelling. On the corner of Market Square and Whielden Street is a former bank, the building has been used in the TV series "The Peter Principal"
F - Whielden Street; (West Side)
At the roundabout on the east side of Market Square, turn right into Whielden Street.
Nos.19 - Not so old as sundial states, probably late 16th century and restored. Nos. 21 & 23 - Well restored small 17th century house. Nos.33 - Brick with traditional split flint infilling and heavy timber work, late 17th century. Nos.43 - Formerly a bakery, there used to be a flour hoist at the rear, 17th century with numerous small wall cupboards and two inglenooks. Nos.45 - Formerly a chair factory, making the famous Chiltern Windsors, late 16th century and preserving drying shed with open brick fireplace.
Turn Right into The Platt
G - The Platt
Rose Cottage / "Four Winds" / Chimney Cottage - Picturesque black-and-white 17th century cottages, but Rose Cottage has been refronted. In years gone by Chimney Cottage was much photographed with its splendid gardens.
Chapel House - Formerly the Church of the Peculiar Baptists.
Baptist Church at end now The Kings Church with a fine dome the second largest unsupported dome in England. (St. Paul's being the largest).
At the top of the Platt is a private grave yard. there is also a public footpath leading to Shardeloes
Retrace your way back down the Platt into Whielden Street On the right you will pass an old furniture factory.
You can either cross Whielden Street or turn right and head to the outskirts of Amersham. If you continue out of Amersham, on your right you will pass a Quakers meeting house. Originally converted from a barn in the late 17th century and extended in the 18th century. Next you will come to Amersham hospital. The hospital has recently been rebuilt, the original hospital buildings converted into flats and housing. The old hospital was originally the workhouse. The fine gothic building was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott in 1839 and was built following the Poor Law Amendment Act of 1834 which obliged parishes to form a "union" to build a workhouse. Retrace your steps and cross Whielden Street . Although now a hospital, it should not be forgotten that until the second World War, Amersham did not have a proper hospital. If people were ill, they were either treated in their homes, sent to a hospital in another town, or if they had a contagious disease they were sent to the "Pest House" on Gore Hill, an isolated building. The work house lasted until 1930 when it was replaced by a small hospital and public assistance institution. The work house replaced other work houses in the area and the "inmates" had a tough time and were looked down upon by may. Over time conditions improved and rules were relaxed, allowing families to live and sleep together and education was provided. the building also provided a tramps ward, people could stay there in return for doing work.
Whielden Street (East .side) Whielden Street was known as Union Street for a time because of the Union Work House (now Amersham hospital - see above).
Nos. 44 & 46 date from the 16th century with brick refronting done a century later. This was originally one house. The famous Amersham black lace used to be made here; part was also a bakery with a vast brick oven, now made into a room; retains fine timberwork, King - post staircase and original panelling and powder closet. Nos.30-42 - Occupiers of these cottages also made pillow lace.
Nos. 38 - The Saracens Head - built in 1530 from timbers removed from old ships. The building surrounds a central courtyard and was originally a coaching inn
Nos.22-28 - From the Georgian period and originally one house which was one of many early workhouses in Amersham (until the building of the Union Work House in 1839, Amersham had used many buildings in the High Street and part of Church House as accommodation and work places for the poor). The inhabitants of the workhouse were engaged in lace making and spinning, the rate of pay for which was "a farthing for every 100 turns of the wheel. Nos. 28 - Apple End - often has a notice in the window detailing the history of the building. Inside the building is the remains of an old cell from the work house with original cell door, claimed to be the oldest door in Amersham. Nos.12-18 - Late 17th century block.
The next building along Whielden Street I believe was the old Hare & Hounds pub.
At the end of Whielden Street look across the road and note the memorial gardens with hill and woods beyond. On the hill is the memorial to the Amersham Martyrs. The woods are Rectory or Parsonage woods and a path leads through them up to Amersham on the Hill.. The gardens are on the site of former cottages which were very closely built to each other and which were demolished in the 1930s along with Church Alley. Turn right into The Broadway
H - Broadway (South Side)
Brian Fullers (Corner of Whielden Street and The Broadway) - Old but much altered, still preserves some interior 15th century wattle-and-daub walls. Next to the Griffin (Numbers 6 - 10 Broadway - originally one building / house) is an early 18th century building with original bow window.
"Ask" Restaurant, formerly "The Griffin" is one of the oldest coaching inns in the town. The rear part is Tudor, the front dates from the late 17th century when the building was much altered, there is a cobbled yard for coaches. At the rear are many outbuildings originally used to service the coaching inn trade. The Griffin was once an important staging post, it was here that some of Cromwell's troops were stationed during the Civil War. The Griffin was also the location of Amersham first petrol pump and the first home of the Amersham Bus Company, the buses having to enter and leave via the rear entrance on Whielden Street because they could not fit through the arch. In 2002 the porch, not an original feather, was removed. The interior displays 17th century timberwork and what is claimed to be the remains of an old Chappell.
Nos.14 - Stonell a massive timber-framed house, inglenooks and other 16th century features. Nos.20 to 24 - Characteristic black-and-white, with much exposed interior timberwork of second half 17th century. Nos. 26 - Late 17th century, refronted, chalk inglenook fireplace. Nos. 28 - Early 18th century with original bow-fronted window. Nos. 36 - Traditional half-timbering with lead latticed Windows, formerly Windsor chair legs were made here; inglenook and bread oven.
Nos. 46 & Huntsmans Cottage - similar traditional 17th century timber framed construction. Broadway Court (54,56,58) - Elizabethan residence refronted in the 18th Century.
Nos. 60 - Small cottage, note the interesting sign high up on the wall.
Beyond the Broadway is a roundabout with Tesco on the north side and a turning to the south called Gore Hill. Many believe the hill is named after a battle against the Danes which was alleged to be so fierce that blood ran down the hill. However, in his book "A History of Amersham" Jullian Hunt points out that in the 1600s there was an enclosure called Gore Hill, a gore being an ancient word for an awkward corner of a field, so this is probably where the name of the hill comes from. Just to the side of Gore Hill is Bury Farm, dating from the 1660's. This was the Quaker home of Isaac and Mary Pennington and it was here William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, came courting his future wife, Gulielma Springett, Mary's daughter. Also, the cottages by Bury farm are where the Lollards held the Conventicle - a meeting if dissenters - believed to be the first recorded in English religious history. This took place in the time of religious dissent in Amersham which led to 6 martyrs being burnt at the stake in 1521 (see above). This part of Amersham used to be called Bury End and was a separate community of a few cottages and an inn - The Wheatsheaf. This community has been swallowed up by Amersham and most of the cottages and pub have been demolished.
Beyond the Tesco / Gore Hill roundabout is The London Road. The Chequers Pub is situated 100 yards along the road on the north side and has a cell where the Martyrs spent their last night before being burnt at the stake.
Next to the Chequers is "Ambers" housed in one of Amersham's original 3 watermills. Bury Mill was a corn mill. After the building of Station Road linking Amersham Old Town with the new railway station at the top of the hill, the flow of the River Misbourne was altered, affecting the performance of the mill. In the 1930s the mill was converted into the Mill Stream cafe.
Cross the Broadway at the Roundabout and head back towards the centre of old Amersham.
B&M Garage occupies the original Amersham bus garage which was opened in the early part of the 20th century. The garage occupied the site after a new bus station was built in the 1930s. This building was a fine example of 1930s architecture, but with the decline in the bus services, the 1930s garage was demolished to make way for the Tesco super market. Tesco is also built on the site of the former Brazils, later Boyers meat pie factory, a business built up by a local family.
For many years, the site between the Broadway and Garages now St. Mary's Court was occupied by the gas works. Rather ugly gas holders dominated the sky line until the early 1990s when they were finally demolished and replaced by less noticeable offices. Note the Sarsen Stones outside the gates, pre-historic stones used as route markers. Head back into the Broadway
The Broadway (North Side)
Parade of shops set into mainly old cottages and with attractive bow windows in keeping with period style of the town. Malt House - Originally a maltings of the monks of Missenden Abbey. Considerably restored in "ye olde" style but still with some wattle-and-daub inside walling dating from 15th century.
Turn right into the memorial gardens, commemorating the people of Amersham who died in the wars. You can walk through the gardens (which on occasions play host to the Amersham Band) to St. Mary's church and the back of Badminton Court. Alternatively walk past St. Mary's on the right to the River Misbourne and St. Mary's grave yard beyond with many ancient graves (The grave yard does include the grave of Ruth Ellis, the last woman hanged in Britain, but the location is not revealed).
You are now back in the area of St. Mary's Church, which if you followed the tour from the start is where we started from. If you have a few hours to spare, you can follow the pubic footpath signs to the Martyrs memorial on up the Hill to Amersham on the Hill.

The above is only a brief outline of the history and details about Amersham. For more information, see the page about the Amersham Museum here which is open spring to autumn and who arrange guided walks on Sunday during the summer.

The pictures on this page serve only to provide reference points. To see the pictures full size, follow the links from the Amersham home page

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